We reach Dunkwa late in the afternoon with empty stomachs. Despite the hour we decide to have a quick bite to eat. At least that's what we think. Turns out there is no such thing as "fast" food in these parts. By the time we've finished and paid the bill it's half past five. The southward track we pick from our map goes via the village of Nsuaem. The more we ask for it, the more different directions we get sent to. We try to orientate on the relief with the GPS, but this leads us uphill to a telecom antenna. Dead end. Finally we find a track going into the jungle; we're just not sure it's going to Nsuaem. But it doesn't matter. The most important thing is that we want to find a nice spot to put our tents before the dying of the light.
Seven kilometers from Dunkwa, there's a clearing in the impassable wall of plants that leaves room for the bikes, just out of sight of the road. Perfect! We set up our tent and go to sleep. Wow, is it really half past seven already? We quietly listen to the deafening nightly sounds of the forest. Damn those crickets! Birds! Bugs! …Elephants?! All evening we hear thunder and see flashes of lightning from a distant storm, but the rain doesn't come near.
Next morning we rise at dawn, not entirely refreshed though. There's tuna sandwich and wild pineapple for breakfast. Since we consumed a lot of water yesterday, I decide to pack the water filter in my handbag and fasten it on the outside of the luggage just in case we need to ask for water. It's still very misty when we hit the road and the gravel is wet. Added to steep slopes and bad erosion, it makes the track all the more challenging. The few surprised passers-by that we ask for directions advise against continuing. The road will even get worse and it does not go straight to Nsuaem. We'll head back to Dunkwa to find the right way and get some fuel.
|Proud pose at the beach |
For more pics see album "Jungle bells, jungle bells"